How to create sanity when breeding for the first time
Where our puppies grow up matters to us...including how fast they potty train
Okay, so you can start potty training puppies at three and a half weeks of age. I saw this on a great breeder's website and it's called the Misty method....but I didn't really look up the whole thing because she gave me the general gist. At nine weeks the puppies are doing well and breeding is no longer as stressful. We get to enjoy the puppies more. (If you have questions on how or where to purchase in bulk, where to get real eco friendly cleaners and supplements, and how to train puppies just give me a call. This is one of my hobbies, not my profession, so I'm open to chat.)
The goal is to always keep the potty space away from where you greet the puppies. They like to have a little privacy and they like to keep their potty separate from their fun.
1. if puppies always live with a clean den they'll want to live in a clean space. Nice, right? so we started with the wider (and dingier) kennel opened and in half so that we could see accidents easily. Whenever there was a urine or feces accident that Chesapeake didn't clean up we immediately pulled out the blanket, cleaned it with eco safe cleaners, and put in a nice fresh blanket. A lot of laundry detergent (again safe eco stuffs) has gone into this and a lot of blankets have been washed....
2. When the pups got old enough to start having softened puppy food I put a piddle pad in front of them. that's it. they started in a pack and play with an opening. They didn't even get the side next to the kennel. just the space in front. To keep them from using the side of the kennel, in the pack and play, by putting a box to take up space. You can cover their feces with a paper towel, clear newsprint (not printed on), or naptkins to keep them from tracking in feces to their blankets. If they do track it in change the blanket immediately. You want them smelling clean blankets in their den. I also took them outside after meals and when they woke up. They prefer outside to go potty anyway. I'll talk about that a little more in a bit.
3. As they have gotten older and wanted to play more we have given them a little more space by seem-ripping the side of the pack and play to make an opening for them to go down to the piddle pad. They seemed to think that the ramp was a part of their potty, (which drove me crazy) but they kept their den cleaner. I used an old shower curtain to go underneath the piddle pads and newsprint (not newspaper) in order to protect my floor. I'll see if I can put up the pack and play again and get pics or look in my phone. I'm sure I took some somewhere.
4. Here's my entry for when we graduated out of the pack and play "Today we took a risk and gave them a big flat space for the den and play area and we put a wall with a doorway to go into the piddle pad area. Crossing my fingers...They have been amazing today! Not only have we had only one accident in the play area, at the beginning of the day, but they have waited to go potty when we go outside. The amount of mess I've cleaned up today has been so minimal."
I also used fabric piddle pads and they were absorbant; but they also had to be washed. The paper had to be thrown away, which was nice, but the urine would spread when first relieved. That was annoying. I also had to be vigilant about keeping the ramp clean. As they got bigger I gave them a bigger play place: the first picture. ever day I tried to give them another inch or two. I discovered that with the toy breed they just develop slower and so we held this space for at least a week.
Naturally they prefer to go outside - so lets add the outside puppy trips. I choose the front yard starting at 3.5 weeks because I want them to have a healthy fear of the road and the loud noises associated. I also want them to see a lot of people so they are social, which has worked beautifully.
As they got bigger I started transporting them in the flight kennel (soft) and then in the pet porter kennel. They are smart critters and prefer to have a potty space and a play space. They tend to use the outskirts and under bushes to go potty while playing in the open grass. They are a little less discriminatory with urine, so be careful to watch where they go before you sit in the grass. I would sit in the grass for half an hour and let them romp and play. This is where they started to learn commands to come (while snapping fingers - I can't whistle) and stop when I said Tsst. I've spent around 5-9 times a day taking the puppies outside. It's been fun with all the people they've gotten to socialize with. They've also gotten accustomed to staying on the grass and staying away from the noises of the road. Although I've got to keep an eye on Dew Star and Double Fudge because they're a bit curious.
3. As they have gotten older and wanted to play more we have given them a little more space by seem-ripping the side of the pack and play to make an opening for them to go down to the piddle pad. They seemed to think that the ramp was a part of their potty, (which drove me crazy) but they kept their den cleaner. I used an old shower curtain to go underneath the piddle pads and newsprint (not newspaper) in order to protect my floor. I'll see if I can put up the pack and play again and get pics or look in my phone. I'm sure I took some somewhere. 
I also used fabric piddle pads and they were absorbant; but they also had to be washed. The paper had to be thrown away, which was nice, but the urine would spread when first relieved. That was annoying. I also had to be vigilant about keeping the ramp clean. As they got bigger I gave them a bigger play place: the first picture. ever day I tried to give them another inch or two. I discovered that with the toy breed they just develop slower and so we held this space for at least a week.
As they got bigger I started transporting them in the flight kennel (soft) and then in the pet porter kennel. They are smart critters and prefer to have a potty space and a play space. They tend to use the outskirts and under bushes to go potty while playing in the open grass. They are a little less discriminatory with urine, so be careful to watch where they go before you sit in the grass. I would sit in the grass for half an hour and let them romp and play. This is where they started to learn commands to come (while snapping fingers - I can't whistle) and stop when I said Tsst. I've spent around 5-9 times a day taking the puppies outside. It's been fun with all the people they've gotten to socialize with. They've also gotten accustomed to staying on the grass and staying away from the noises of the road. Although I've got to keep an eye on Dew Star and Double Fudge because they're a bit curious.
Breeders note: If you are going to try this look up the misty method. Also, I have a small shovel to pick up their solid waste and I put it in my flower bed. That way there is still a space to go potty and a space to play in the grass.
At eight weeks of age we expanded the space again and gave them more space and more toys. It was also important to me to make the little alcove a place with food and water so that they wouldn't consider it a potty space.
We still have accidents if we don't keep the piddle pads changed and clean; but they are doing so well. Because three of the seven are adopted, at this point, we have the two girls in one kennel and the other in her own. The boys are in a crate together until they are adopted and a crate can be purchased for their exclusive use.
We have alternated from cloth piddle pads and disposable (sposies) and I've discovered that when I have seven puppies it is okay to use cloth when they are younger; but I would just have too much laundry when they're older. We use sposies and change them 2-3 times a day when we are inside a lot and 2 times a day when we get them outside more.
To keep Tashi's kennel from having a potty space in the back we put a box in the back so she doesn't feel she can use it to relieve herself. It is working well so far and because they've been being crate/kennel trained she only cried for about a minute - if that - and went to sleep. When the puppies first go home this is a really good idea until they are five months of age, so they associate their kennel as a den and not as a den/potty.
At night they can handle 8-9 hours in the kennel now that they are nine weeks old. We never leave them for more than 4 hours during the day in the crate (church). By the time they are adults you can work full time, if you have to, and have them in the kennel. Just make sure you spend a lot of time with them before and after work. They love to play and cuddle.
I'll update this later with more info on how to potty train your puppy when you get it home. it is about five months of age when a puppy is truly potty trained; so make sure you are a breeder or find a breeder who starts early. It will be the saving of sanity (less poop and accidents for the breeder too) of the future adoptive families of the pups.
Aren't they darling?
If you are looking to adopt a puppy call, facetime or text (801)921-4272
We speak English, Brian- Portuguese, Kristy- American Sign Language
Nursing:
The picture below is Chesapeake Baybe STILL nursing a couple times a day. She's a trooper and the puppies are grateful! :)
We still have accidents if we don't keep the piddle pads changed and clean; but they are doing so well. Because three of the seven are adopted, at this point, we have the two girls in one kennel and the other in her own. The boys are in a crate together until they are adopted and a crate can be purchased for their exclusive use.We have alternated from cloth piddle pads and disposable (sposies) and I've discovered that when I have seven puppies it is okay to use cloth when they are younger; but I would just have too much laundry when they're older. We use sposies and change them 2-3 times a day when we are inside a lot and 2 times a day when we get them outside more.
To keep Tashi's kennel from having a potty space in the back we put a box in the back so she doesn't feel she can use it to relieve herself. It is working well so far and because they've been being crate/kennel trained she only cried for about a minute - if that - and went to sleep. When the puppies first go home this is a really good idea until they are five months of age, so they associate their kennel as a den and not as a den/potty.At night they can handle 8-9 hours in the kennel now that they are nine weeks old. We never leave them for more than 4 hours during the day in the crate (church). By the time they are adults you can work full time, if you have to, and have them in the kennel. Just make sure you spend a lot of time with them before and after work. They love to play and cuddle.
I'll update this later with more info on how to potty train your puppy when you get it home. it is about five months of age when a puppy is truly potty trained; so make sure you are a breeder or find a breeder who starts early. It will be the saving of sanity (less poop and accidents for the breeder too) of the future adoptive families of the pups.
Aren't they darling?
Nursing:
The picture below is Chesapeake Baybe STILL nursing a couple times a day. She's a trooper and the puppies are grateful! :)
Why 8-12 weeks before the toy sized puppies can go home?
Responsible breeders keep puppies longer to ensure positive puppy behaviors and health. It is more expensive for the breeder; but we think it is worth the work to see our puppies behave and adapt well in their new adopted homes.
Toy Miniature Schnauzers need to stay with the Dam, and ideally the Sire, until at least 12 weeks of age. Their teeth need to be in all the way and they've got to learn how to deal with people. This takes longer because they develop slower than miniatures. Be patient and enjoy them. They're so fun, soft, cuddly, playful, joyful, etc., you get the idea. I'm going to miss these babies of mine and my children are going to miss them too.
Normal Miniature Schnauzer puppies need good nutrients, plenty of nurture and eight full weeks with the Dam. Ideally they'd also have that time with the sire. It is important they learn pack mentality and those last three days you'll see a transformation come over each pup's behavior. It's pretty spectacular. If you can keep them until 9-14 weeks you'll be doing the new owners a favor.
It is also important for puppy brain development to not leave the Dam until they have their teeth come it. During those last few days with their mother they need their mother to switch from teaching them how to deal with other dogs into how to deal with humans. You want them to have human etiquette, I promise. Seriously, this is the way to help keep puppies out of shelters or being rehomed.
It's very nice if you can raise them around babies and children. Then they become accustomed to being grabbed nearly anywhere on their body and still be nice. Our fourth litter we trusted our puppies with our children more and they are definitely the best behaved. If you don't have small children then borrow the neighbor's by letting them come over and play daily with them. It's worth the inconvenience or pleasure of having the kids around.
Make sure you let the new owners know that the dog isn't a true adult until age 3 and that patience with their puppy is crucial.
We consider the size estimate to fluctuate, but that is what we base our adoption cost off of, so pricing may possibly change as puppies get older. Often when we know a puppy is smaller than we thought we will raise the cost for it costs us more time and resources to care for smaller puppies. The puppies vary in size and are difficult to tell how large they are going to be due to intensely guarded secrets of other breeders, so we have boldly published our growth charts and watched how our own puppies and grown up to go off of. We have a pretty clear idea of where they will end up now that we are four litters in.
Do not even attempt to size them at birth. When they've been eating solids for two weeks you'll have a better idea. Our beauty was really timid and wouldn't fight for milk when nursing. Once he was allowed to eat all he wanted, without a struggle, he switched from teeny toy to normal toy sizing. You really will get the best size readings after they've weaned (which for our toy litter was 7.5 weeks).
Normal Miniature Schnauzer puppies need good nutrients, plenty of nurture and eight full weeks with the Dam. Ideally they'd also have that time with the sire. It is important they learn pack mentality and those last three days you'll see a transformation come over each pup's behavior. It's pretty spectacular. If you can keep them until 9-14 weeks you'll be doing the new owners a favor.
It is also important for puppy brain development to not leave the Dam until they have their teeth come it. During those last few days with their mother they need their mother to switch from teaching them how to deal with other dogs into how to deal with humans. You want them to have human etiquette, I promise. Seriously, this is the way to help keep puppies out of shelters or being rehomed.
It's very nice if you can raise them around babies and children. Then they become accustomed to being grabbed nearly anywhere on their body and still be nice. Our fourth litter we trusted our puppies with our children more and they are definitely the best behaved. If you don't have small children then borrow the neighbor's by letting them come over and play daily with them. It's worth the inconvenience or pleasure of having the kids around.
Make sure you let the new owners know that the dog isn't a true adult until age 3 and that patience with their puppy is crucial.
Why do some breeders charge more for females?
To be honest? It beats me. We think boys and girls are equally special. Girls are more expensive to have fixed and girls have a heat (menstrual cycle) so You need diapers. Boys tend to be easier to fix and can sometimes mark the house (however, we haven't really had a problem with it).We consider the size estimate to fluctuate, but that is what we base our adoption cost off of, so pricing may possibly change as puppies get older. Often when we know a puppy is smaller than we thought we will raise the cost for it costs us more time and resources to care for smaller puppies. The puppies vary in size and are difficult to tell how large they are going to be due to intensely guarded secrets of other breeders, so we have boldly published our growth charts and watched how our own puppies and grown up to go off of. We have a pretty clear idea of where they will end up now that we are four litters in.
Do not even attempt to size them at birth. When they've been eating solids for two weeks you'll have a better idea. Our beauty was really timid and wouldn't fight for milk when nursing. Once he was allowed to eat all he wanted, without a struggle, he switched from teeny toy to normal toy sizing. You really will get the best size readings after they've weaned (which for our toy litter was 7.5 weeks).
(We cannot guarantee size due to the control that you have over how well you take care of your puppy, how you groom it and how much you feed it; however, if you follow our instructions their sizing should be very accurate.)
Why do puppies get worms and how do I treat it?
Puppies like to stick their noses in everything. How does this or that smell? What is it made of? What did they eat? What is their rank? Just like dogs they are learning to read rear ends (which is an important dog practice that quickly defines a relationship). Naturally we recommend you keep your dog away from a strange dog's until they are at least 12 weeks old and from strange dog's feces (because that is how dogs get rabies). Still, in the back yard it's pretty normal. Because of this unfortunate dog trait worms tend to be a companion if not treated.
Diotomaceous Earth is a natural de-wormer. (You can go to many websites and learn how much to apply to your dog's food.) Remember that if it gets in lungs it can puncture alveoli so keep it moist with the food and preferably serve it with lipids (fats) for best results.
"Diatomaceous earth is very fine sand made up of the fossilized remains of hard shelled algae called diatoms. It kills fleas and parasites mechanically by dehydrating them."
Read more: Diatomaceous Earth and Dogs | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/facts_5452927_diatomaceous-earth-dogs.html#ixzz1fxYYH800
What are some things they learn before coming to their forever home?
These puppies are given time near a busy street when potty training so they understand to stay on the grass and near humans. We also encourage them to stay on the grass and stay off the cement. We use commands such as "Go potty," "Good dog," "Good boy," "Good girl," and "Kennel," "Sit," and "Stay." When you are traveling your dog will already understand that it is okay to go back to the kennel after potty time.
Our previous Sire and Dam were Oreo and Fairlight trained their pups well and we've started to see Chessie and Eclipse already behaving like their parents. I'm confident they are amazing parents.
Oreo is a sire so he'll stand off and interact occasionally. Fairlight teaches them to play, to follow, to obey, to submit, which equates to people and dog etiquette. Maybe I'll post a video, it is quite a pleasure to watch.
When puppies are teething their natural inclination in to chew. We provide puppy nila bones and rope toys (and sticks when we play outside) so they recognize good things to chew. We also let them play around "no" objects such as shoes, children's toys, paper, cords, etc. Naturally they are highly monitored in this environment for safety and positive reinforcement. We use Cezar Millan's command (slightly modified) and say "Ch" like he says "Tssst" to distract them from their object of prey. We then offer them a "yes" toy such as a rope or put them back in the fray of puppy play.
They are given excellent food (Earthbound) and as much as they want to encourage healthy growth and an understanding of when they are full. As humans we quickly turn off the receptor that tells us we are full; when fed only occasionally puppies get concerned that they won't get enough and learn to gorge themselves. That is the last thing you want a puppy to get in the habit of, so we prevent it for you.
How we got started and why not AKC?
We are very fond of Schnauzers. I (Kristy Lynne) was introduced to Miniature Schnauzers in 2004. At first I thought their haircut was funny and that they were bow-legged! I did start to fall in love with the fact that they had hair instead of fur, making them partially hypoallergenic, and I gave into purchasing a puppy.We researched for six weeks on different reasons for breeding, on different places to purchase, on how to avoid puppy mills, and what to look for in a dog. Finally I found a dog that was the color I wanted and seemed to be in a healthy environment. I visited the breeder and was dissappointed in how she was breeding the dogs; however her Schnauzers did NOT have genu varus (bow-legged), and they were healthy! I liked their lean bodies and our daughter fell in love with a small white puppy that grew up to be white chocolate. This puppy had a father and mother who were papered, though the father's transfer papers were misplaced. After careful thought we decided that this puppy was more important than the papers from a political heirarchy.
(Like most white Schnauzers her hair is white and occasionally she has a creamy stripe down the middle of her back. In Germany, back in history, they called it a yellow stripe and they euthenized dogs with white hair. When she's groomed she's mostly white with dark chocolate brown nose, eyelids, and paw pads. You could almost say she is White Chocolate with dark chocolate icing!)
We did register Oreo when we purchased him. When we received the paperwork the AKC stated boldly that White Schnauzers should not be bred. It is so sad that they choose to be racist against the colors other than black and silver. They also discourage parti colored dogs, toy sized, and teacup sized (though they will register them) being bred. We think that varied dogs make the breed more healthy and that each owner desires to have a unique puppy that cuddles into their home and no one else's. You will find rare colors in our pups such as white chocolate, dark chocolate with white, parti, and white along with toy and teacup sizing. :) We LOOOVE them!
Plus, who doesn't just love to have a little stuffed animal that isn't stuffed? A "toy" that loves you back, walks with you, cuddles with you, and is such an intelligent breed that it is even emotional with you? I love Schnauzers! I never thought I'd see the day when I would say that....but here it is. They are such an incredible breed! We have loved him and re-habilitated him from neglected and abusive situations.
(Note, in the picture it is dark and so most of the chocolate coloring is difficult to see. He has a lot of black in his hind quarters and a lot of Chocolate mixed in with the black from his shoulders up. He has liver colored skin in a cute "moo cow" pattern that is officially called Parti. I never thought I'd fall in love with that either!)
All our Miniature Schnauzers are sold at a pet price. This means that if you choose to breed your Schnauzer you will do so without AKC papers; but we give you their pedigree and we haven't had a shortage of people loving our puppies. We have been pleased to adopt puppies into excellent homes paperfree before.
What are the genetic benefits of these particular Miniature Schnauzers?
I would encourage you to continue to share the incredible genetic legacy of a White Chocolate Dam and a Liver Parti (though showing black as well) Sire with the world of pets. These Schnauzers have very distinct features that are priceless to this breed.The skeletal structure is important and their ears also stand up. For a pet owner this means that it is much more difficult for them to have ear infections, though we still have had at least one in Oreo.
Due to genetic variety we also have large litters (7, 6, 7, 7) and beautiful colors that are rare and fun!
Dark Chocolate with white (Black, Brown, and white)
White Chocolate (White hair with a medium brown nose, brown skin, brown eyelids)
White with chocolate skin (this darker skin helps prevent sunburn)
Parti (this is varied coloring that may be similar to the spots on a jersey cow)
Our dogs also have long straight legs which helps prevent hip displasia (a common problem in miniature schnauzers). You can help by having a pet treat with chondroitin or glucosamine to pad the joints.
Born without rear dew claws, which normally get snagged in blankets.
Born with upright ears which helps prevent ear infections.
Curly tails that arch over the back and sometimes curl past the back (the Sire's does that and the Dam's is curled almost to her back).
*There is no medical purpose in docking a dogs tail. In the Europe it is illegal and in the US it is purely aesthetic. After discussing with a few vets and doing extensive research we have made the bold decision to fall in love with tails!
There is one genetic trait that is rare and we have occasionally had a puppy with it: some of the males are born with only one testicle that drops. This is a cancer hazard and these puppies must be fixed for the protection of their health.
That said, we cannot guarantee that the puppies will receive these genetic traits. We do hope that by breeding them we see them show up in their pups.
We have information for you concerning pedigree, and will happily include the information.
That said, we love having Miniature, Toy, and Teacup sized Schnauzers with unique and distinct coloring! When our Double Fudge Oreo and Fairlight breed they make beautiful and unique puppies that are special and just for each home they become a part of.
P.S. The purpose for the beard and a skirt is reminiscent that Schnauzers used to be instrumental in hunting down rats. In order to protect the dog they kept that hair long so that if the rat bit it would catch hair instead of skin or genitals. When a Schnauzer's hair is clipped it no longer sheds twice a year and it's hair becomes super soft. The defined cut also makes the dog look tough and slender. Nice, huh?
The following chart is from a Show Dog breeder. Show dog breeders are very specific and prefer the "standard" in size, color (and dislike parti, white, liver, chocolate and Toy/Teacups), and grooming. You are welcome to read over their site, just be aware they breeding for Showing and therefore are following strict guidelines for that arena.
We are breeders for pets and make our choices deliberately.
http://britmorschnauzers.com/critical.html
CRITICAL PERIODS IN A DOG'S LIFE --
DEVELOPMENTAL STAGES
| 0 to 7 Weeks Neonatal, Transition, Awareness, and Canine Socialization | Puppy is with mother and littermates. During this period, puppy learns about social interaction, play, and inhibiting aggression* from mother and littermates. (*Note: Some lines of dogs don't begin to get incisors until about 7 weeks, so this time period may last two additional weeks in those dogs--one can't learn to inhibit his bite if he has no teeth.) Puppy learns to use species specific behaviors that make him a dog. Practices body postures, facial expressions, and vocalizations and learns their effects on siblings. Plays chase games to learn coordination and timing, greeting behaviors to learn body postures and fight games teach him use of his body. Learns to accept discipline during this time from his mother. Learns bite inhibitions and weaning. Mother dogs set up the puppies for these lessons. (Very important to let mother dog stay with pups to teach these lessons.) Puppies must stay with their mother and littermates during this critical period. Puppies learn the most important lesson in their lives - they learn to accept discipline. |
| 7 to 12 Weeks Human Socialization Period | The puppy now has the brain waves of an adult dog, but his attention span is short. This period is when the most rapid learning occurs. Learning at this age is permanent so this is a perfect time to start training. Also, this is the ideal time to introduce the puppy to things that will play an important part in his life. Introduce the puppy to different people, places, animals, and sounds in a positive, non-threatening way. |
| 8 to 11 Weeks Fear Imprint Period | Avoid frightening the puppy during this period. Any traumatic, frightening or painful experience will have a more lasting effect on the puppy than if it occurred at any other time in its life. Avoid any elective surgery* at this time. (*Note: This is the time period during which ears are usually cropped on a schnauzer. I find that the fear period usually occurs in my dogs around 7-8 weeks, so I generally have ears cropped a bit after this time.) |
| 13 to 16 Weeks Seniority Classification Period or The Age of Cutting | Puppy cuts teeth and apron strings! Puppy begins testing who is going to be pack leader. From 13 weeks on, if puppy attempts to bite, even in play, it is an attempt to dominate. You must discourage any and all biting because such biting is a sign of dominance! (*Note: A quick pinch of the puppy's lip while staring him in the eye and hollaring in his face works well in most puppies.) Pup is attempting to clarify and resolve the question of leadership. (Establishing rules for pup extremely important at this time.) It is important that you are a strong and consistent leader. Formal training must begin. Such training will help you establish your leadership. |
| 4 to 8 Months Play Instinct Period Flight Instinct Period | Puppy may wander and ignore you. It is very important that you keep the puppy on a leash at this time! The way that you handle the puppy at this time determines if the puppy will come to you when called. At about 4-1/2 months, the puppy loses his milk teeth and gets his adult teeth. That's when puppy begins serious chewing! A dog's teeth don't set in his jaw until between 6 and 10 months. During this time, the puppy has a physical need to exercise his mouth by chewing. |
| 6 to 14 Months Second Fear Imprint Period or Fear of New Situations Period | Dog again shows fear of new situations and even familiar situations. Dog may be reluctant to approach someone or something new. It is important that you are patient and act very matter-of-fact in these situations. Never force the dog to face the situation. DO NOT pet the frightened puppy or talk in soothing tones. The puppy will interpret such responses as praise for being frightened. Training will help improve the dog's confidence. Use treats and positve methods to coach dog at this time. Any training classes begun at this age needs to be fun and non-stressful for the dog. Neuter or spay the dog now. |
| 1 to 4 Years Maturity Period | You may encounter increased aggression and renewed testing for dominance. Continue to train your dog during this period. |
